Friday 23 January 2015

'nids part 161 - And yet Moar Genestealers

These were the final 5 Genestealer to be based. I was looking to make scenic bases with barrels but in the end just went with slate as I had it to hand and it would cost me nothing. But it was here that I realised just why these old models work so well. This is mainly because they come in two body poses with separate arms to give the vatiety. When I was kitbashing the others I tried to distribute the two poses evenly but somehow ended up with 4 leaping poses and one standing pose in this brood of 5.

And this is where the pose came alive. Once you attach these to stones you can shift the position and the result is a really dynamic leaping pose. The main reason for this is that it's leaping off the back foot whereas the current model has the front foot being the point of contact. There's just something in the back foot pose that implies there is far more momentum at play. Even when you look at the Spawn of Cryptus he's stood on the front foot.

That's not to say you couldn't reposition the new ones leaping off the back foot it's just they're naturally sculpted with the front foot attached to the 'slotta' slot. When they're all finished I'll line them up so we can compare and contrast. For now I just need to add some sand to these bases and another 5 from Deathstorm.

Then it's undercoat and put away as some of the other items need some attention, whether it's my Realm of Battle Board, Dark Angels or other secret squirrel projects I need to crack on with them instead of 30 genestealers which will ultimately drive me insane!

As there was only 3 pics I thought I'd just throw in the primed pictures and ended up taking considerably more and I could have eeked this out into another post!

Of course red oxide primed models don't show up too great on a my red planet realm of battle board but you can catch the gist until the finished models get photographed.

Toxin stealers, once again primarily used for unit identification. The majority have two pairs of toxin sacs, but I stumbled across an odd non-Macragge, on the left, and he has some of the Carnifex sacs for a more organic 'riddled with poison' effect. If I ever get any more I'll kitbash them the same so I have 5 at regular intervals and 5 poisoned all over the shop.

Some straightforward carapace armour biomorph.

Original Space Hulk stealers with extra carapace and scy-tals. I also noticed some of these have tails that look like worms, segemented with a 'head' you can use your imagination for what I'm describing it's a common image. However some of them are the same but have more of a 'cap' like pointy toadstool.  So it's interesting again to see the variety in this model.

Carnifex armour plates, scy-tals and urban bases left over from the 2nd gen Space Hulk bases that were too big for 25mm bases, if only we knew of 32mm back then...

More scytals and armour and I had one feeder tendril head left. I recently did a trade in which I swapped 3 Feeder heads for 2 pairs of Fleshborer Hives but I was sad I'd got rid of all the Feeder heads only to discover this guy amongst his mates.

And some tilt-shift shots with a bit of post production messing about.


  1. That repose of the classic genestealers is brilliant. Its simple but it makes a big difference; consider that idea stolen :-) I have about 30 to do at some stage, so we'll see if I can pull it off as well as you have. Have you had any breakages of that back foot attachment? The "slotta base" made them practically indestructible (...but boring).

    1. They're all drilled and pinned, what with supergluing them to slate I had to be certain they wouldn't snap. Although the drill went all the way through on a couple I'm pretty sure they'll be more durable than some of the newer ones leaping from the tiny nid capillary towers [some of those did break but I just poly glued them back together].

      If you're going to do this also be aware of the balance of the model. If you're having it leap off the front of the slate make sure it's a chunky enough piece to counter balance at the back. One of mine actually has two pieces that manage to fit round each other making quite a unique slate structure as piece slopes up its mirror slopes down, it's quite cool.

  2. Thanks for the tips, I'll definitely give it a try. I guess if you are unable to balance the model with the slate you can add weight to the underside of the base; a few of my miniatures have coins glued underneath them which seems to do the trick (5c AUS is the perfect size!).